EDITH HEAD’S COSTUME SKETCHES

 

Edith head is known internationally as the epitome of the classic Hollywood costume designer. Her costume design sketches, however, were done in a  variety of styles depending upon who her sketch artist was at the time. That she had her own flair and could produce beautiful costume renderings is little known, mostly because these sketches are very rare, and the ones that are often seen are largely based on black and white photographs.

The story of how Edith Head got her job as a sketch artist at Paramount is famous. She interviewed with Howard Greer, then Head Designer, and wanting to make a good impression, she borrowed art pieces from several fellow art students at the Chouinard Art School for her portfolio. The portfolio really impressed Greer by its variety, so he hired her, even when she admitted that not all the pieces were hers. Designer Travis Banton soon after replaced Howard Greer and it was by him that Edith learned costume design. She also learned to replicate his costume sketches. especially the facial features and body postures of the  models. Not having had the anatomy and life-drawing classes in art, however, Edith never did learn to properly draw hands and feet, the most difficult feature to draw or paint. It is with these features that one can recognize the difference between a Travis Banton and an Edith Head sketch. Theses costume sketches are very lovely nonetheless.

Shown below are several costume sketches that she illustrated herself.

 

Mary Martin The Great Victor Herbert copy

The sketch above by Edith was done for Mary Martin in the film The Great Victor Herbert, 1939, a musical based on the songs and operettas of Victor Herbert (Babes in Toyland, Naughty Marietta, Little Nemo). Mary Martin played the lead role opposite Allan Jones and Walter Connolly. The hands are awkwardly drawn, but Edith kept the Howard Greer/Travis Banton tradition of drawing three fingers (the middle fingers were actually joined) and the use of bright red finger nails.

 

Edith Head sketch 7

The sketch above is from an unknown film and actress, beautifully rendered. A period costume, likely from the Civil War era.

 

Barbara Jo Allen Kiss the Boys Goodbye 1941 2 copy

The costume design above was done for Barbara Allen in Kiss the Boys Goodbye (1941), a movie about musical theater and rivalry between actresses based on the play by Clare Booth. The approval initials of the director and producer are on the sketch.

Edith unknown 1942

The costume design sketch above is also unidentified, although it has the approval initials of a director or producer. The style is clearly from 1942 – 1943 The smaller drawing at the top shows an alternate look with a vest. Women’s suits were popular in the 1940s and the broad shoulders were not just a military influence but had started earlier as a technique of giving women an air of power, athleticism and independence.

 

Dorothy Lamour Aloma of the South Seas 2 copy

Edith Head became famous for her sarong designs for Dorothy Lamour in several films starting with Jungle Princess in 1936. The design above is for Miss Lamour in Aloma of the South Seas (1941). Producer Monta Bell’s signature is at left bottom.

 

Barbara Stanwyck You Belong to Me.2 COPY JPG

Barbara Stanwyck was a favorite star for Edith Head to dress. Here is one  of Edith’s design sketches  for a ski outfit for the film You Belong to Me (1941).

 

Margery Reynolds in Holiday Inn 2 copy

The glamorous gown design above, in another sketch by Edith Head, was done for Margery Reynolds in the classic Holiday Inn (1942), co-starring Fred Astaire and Bing Crosby. Although the film is black and white the gown was made of gold bugle beads.

 

Virginia Field Crystal Ball 1943 copy

The costume sketch by Edith above was a design for Virginia Field in Crystal Ball (1943). The film also starred Paulette Goddard as a rival in a fortune-teller scheme co-starring Ray Milland. The sleek but broad-shouldered silhouette of the gown with its décolleté illusion top is very chic.

 

Edith Betty Hutton

The costume sketch above by Edith Head was done for Betty Hutton in the Preston Sturges film The Miracle of Mogan’s Creek (1944) This is one of Sturges’ best screw-ball comedies co-starring Eddie Bracken. The coated outfit is very smart as worn by Betty Hutton in the film.

 

Marjorie Renolds in Holiday Inn copy

The sketch above is another design for Betty Hutton in the same film. She wears it in the famous all-night party scene.

The costume sketch below was not done by Edith Head, but rather was illustrated by Grace Sprague for Edith’s design forNatalie Wood in Sex and the Single Girl (1964). Ms. Sprague was the sketch artist that was most identified with Edith Head. She illustrated Edith’s book The Dress Doctor, as well as many of her newspaper and magazine articles in the late 1950s and early 1960s. She was a prolific sketcher and would turn out dozens of sketches for each film, many of them unused for any costumes.

Head sketch Sex&Single Girl

Sketch artist Richard Hopper illustrated the sketch below for Edith’s design for Elke Sommer in The Oscar (1966). He took over most of the sketch artist duties after Grace Sprague died, and remained with Edith for many years until he too became a costume designer.

The notes on the sketch are in Edith’s own hand. Costume sketches were working tools and part of the production process, handled by producers, directors, actors/actresses, and wardrobe workers.

Edith Head Elke Sommer in The Oscar

Many of the iconic Edith Head designs for such stars as Grace Kelly, Kim Novak, and Audrey Hepburn that are seen today were done years after the movies were produced. Edith Head did not keep these sketches after she left Paramount but had them reproduced (several times)  later for her fashion shows. As such they are not really costume design sketches and not a part of the production of a movie, but rather are movie art pieces or costume illustrations. We can see in the examples above that with either the production of the illustration, or with the notes on her designs, that Edith Head was very involved in all stages of the process.

 

11 thoughts on “EDITH HEAD’S COSTUME SKETCHES”

  1. Would anyone know what became of the sheer black Valentine’s Day dress that Marjorie Reynolds wore in Holiday Inn?

  2. Hello,

    I am a curator at the beginning stages of organizing an Edith Head costume exhibition. I’ve been in communication with Paramount and Wisconsin Archives, but would love to know where some of her costumes and sketches are located, if this information can be provided.

    1. Hi Catherine, There are many collectors of her costumes. If you give me more information about what you are organizing I could probably get you in contact with a group.
      I have a large collection of costume sketches, but so does the Wisconsin Archives. You can contact me at c1esquevin@gmail.com

  3. My mother was Edith Head’s sketch artist. Her name was Flora Besser. Her work is distinctive and has beautiful faces, model proportions and finished hands and feet. She worked on Sabrina, Roman holiday, the Ten Commandments, and many more. She worked as Heads number one assistant when Bob Mackie worked there. I very rarely see her sketches so I assume ther were taken by Head when she left Paramount. My moms sketches were signed by Head. I would appreciate any insights you have about this

    1. Hi Ronna, thanks for your inquiry. I own many of Edith Head’s sketches, most of which were illustrated by sketch artists. I don’t know of your mother’s work but I may have seen it. Do you have any samples
      you could submit a photo of? If so I could compare with some I have to identify her work . If you like you could send samples to my email at c1esquevin@gmail.com Best, Christian

    1. There isn’t an “official” source for Edith Head costume sketch prints that I’ve ever seen. Ebay does list a variety of reproductions. I’ve never actually seen
      them so I can’t vouch for their quality. Most of them are probably duplicated from photographs and auction catalogs. The best reproduction technique would be a high reolution scan from the original sketch.

    2. I have a costume sketch by Edith Head from a place in the sun in which she won an academy award. It is of the character Marsha and signed off by the academy award winning director George Stevens. Please call if interested and I can send photos. 937-460-6847 or 513-578-9081. Thanks, Rebecca and Jonathan.

  4. Being blessed , met Edith Head in 1973, being double blessed
    Have an original costume design signed by her.
    Costume was for the wife Franseca(?) in the film Airport,
    Attached is sample of fabric to be used.
    Would appreciate a valuation for insurance,
    What a wonderful woman, kind generous with her time and talent.

    1. That’s wonderful that you got to meet her, she was an icon of the industry and very generous as you mentioned.
      It’s also wonderful that you have a signed costume sketch of hers. I am not an appraiser so I can’t give you an evaluation.
      You can check on ebay where Edith Head sketches come up periodically for an idea of the prices.

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