Tag Archives: Howard Greer

TRAVIS BANTON AND EDITH HEAD: THE EARLY YEARS

The early, pre 1930 days of Travis Banton and his protégé Edith Head are relatively unknown. Banton’s best work came with his costume designs for Marlene Dietrich, Carole Lombard, and Claudette Colbert starting in 1932. Although Edith Head had worked at Paramount since 1923, moving from sketch artist to costume designer, she hadn’t made a name for herself until her designs for Dorothy Lamour’s “sarong” in The Jungle Princess (1936) started a fad. Her start at Paramount has often been told. She taught French at the Hollywood School for Girls, and during her summer break, she answered a job ad for a sketch artist at Paramount. Since she had been teaching French at the school, they thought she could also teach art, so she had previously enrolled at the Chouinard Art Institute. She prepared her portfolio for the interview by rounding up a variety of students’ drawings, watercolors, and oils from Chouinard. Paramount’s head costume designer Howard Greer was impressed by the variety of the art in the portfolio and told her to report to work the next day.[1] But when Head sat in front of her drawing board looking lost, Greer tried to comfort her by saying she would soon get the hang of things.[2] That’s when she confessed about the art in her portfolio not being hers. Greer thought that was funny, and proceeded to teach her how to sketch.

Travis Banton had been designing fashions for couturiere Madame Frances. His first big success with the house was his design for Mary Pickford’s wedding dress to Douglas Fairbanks. General Manager Walter Wanger brought Travis Banton to Paramount to design the costumes for The Dressmaker from Paris (1925), with the studio tagline, “for the first time anywhere the 1926 Paris fashions.”

Banton Costume design for Dorothy Seastrom in “The Dressmaker from Paris,” 1925.

The Hollywood studios were now competing for the fashion forward looks in their films, and bringing in the best fashion and costume designers to create them. Edith Head became a quick study, learning how to sketch in both Greer’s and Banton’s style of costume illustration. She never quite managed Banton’s ease with feminine figures or stylistic flourishes. One day while working on a sketch, the great star of the silent screen, Jetta Goudal, walked by Head’s drawing board after a fitting and said, “Little sketch girl, never draw anything like that for me.” [3]

Edith Head design and sketch for unknown actress and film

At the end of 1927, Howard Greer left Paramount to start his own fashion line, with his salon on Sunset Blvd. in Beverly Hills, decorated by Harold Grieve.  Banton replaced Greer as head designer and Edith Head became his assistant. In the days before the stock market crash and the Great Depression, Paramount was producing and releasing over sixty films a year, Greer and Banton had shared the costume designing, but with Greer gone, Banton would now need to have Edith Head design some of the films, or for some of the actors. Clara Bow had become a big star after her huge hit, It in 1927, with its publicity campaign calling her the “It girl.” Banton designed her costumes but found that she resisted his ideas, or modified her look by adding belts and wearing white ankle socks. He soon turned her over to Edith Head to dress.[4]

Clara Bow in “It,” 1927, designed by Travis Banton

Many of the stars of the 1920s are mostly unknown today. Besides the stars of the 1930s that got their start in the 20s, Banton and Head designed for 1920s stars Nancy Carroll, Mary Brian, Miriam Seagar, Lilyan Tashman, and future star of RKO’s King Kong (1933), Fay Wray.

Banton design and sketch for Fay Wray in “Pointed Heels,” 1929

Head said she learned much watching Greer and Banton handling the stars, saying no two were handled the same way. She mentioned Nancy Carroll, “an important star.” “I was watching Travis fit her – there was no temper tantrum, no discussion. She took one look at herself in the dress and calmly ripped it off.” [5] Head added to this description that Nancy Carroll wore the dress in the film anyway – another important lesson.

Banton sketch for unknown Nancy Carroll film – Edith Head’s notes

 

While Head had managed a fair likeness of Banton’s sketch style, especially of the head and general posture, her anatomy was never quite correct when drawing hands and feet. Nevertheless, she did illustrate some of Banton’s own designs as well as sketching for her own designs in the period through 1930. Several costume sketches by Head were changed substantially by Banton for their final screen appearance. This apparently taught Head that modifications made from sketch to screen were usually improvements – a methodology she used throughout her career.

Several of the following sketches were gathered by seamstress Marion Morris who had worked at Paramount. They were later obtained by Gail Donley from whom I gratefully acquired them.

Edith Head sketch, modified by Travis Banton for Nancy Carroll in The Dance of Life, Paramount 1929. Modified for the screen to short red pleated skirt, doted scarf, belt, and cuffs.

 

As was typical in the earlier days of the studio system, the studio designers also designed and had the wardrobe departments fabricate gowns for stars to wear on special, publicity-worthy, events. Edith Head had designed a costume for Ruth Chatterton to wear at the masked Fitzmaurice Ball in Beverly Hills, for which she won a first prize. The outfit consisted of a full white taffeta skirt decorated with red velvet roses, with a fitted top with a square cut neckline, mask and hat. It appears that Miss Head designed clothes for herself by the looks of the following sketch, with her signature hairstyle with glasses, the very rough sketch with squiggle hands sure to not impress even a B actress.  Yellow polka dot fabric sample attached.

 

Coming from a different source, I acquired from Yvonne Papp some costume sketches that were also from Paramount in the 1930-1931 period. These lovely sketches were Travis Banton designed and illustrated. One example is shown below, of star Wynne Gibson. The design may be for the film Man of the World, starring William Powell and Carole Lombard, 1931. These costume sketches had been collected by wardrobe mistress Eleanor Shotwell, who had worked with Banton at Paramount, and previously at Warner Bros.

Despite the Stock Market crash of 1929, Paramount kept up a busy schedule of film releases, buoyed by the introduction of talking films and their popularity starting in 1927.  The Great Depression did catch up with Paramount, however, and in 1933 it went into receivership, a form of bankruptcy. By then they had a roster of movie stars including Marlene Dietrich, Carole Lombard, Claudette Colbert, Mae West, and Tallulah Bankhead that Travis Banton made glamorous. Male stars including Gary Cooper, Cary Grant and William Powell provided love interests.  Edith Head continued through most of the 1930s designing for smaller roles or the “horse operas,” as she called westerns.  When Banton’s contract was not renewed at the end of 1938, she was made Paramount’s new head designer, now with sketch artists of her own.

See also: https://silverscreenmodes.com/edith-heads-costume-sketches/

https://silverscreenmodes.com/marlene-dietrich-travis-banton/

[1] Edith Head, The Dress Doctor, Boston: Little, Brown, 1959. 41.

[2] Howard Greer, Designing Male, New York: Putnam’s, 1951. 226.

[3] Head, The Dress Doctor. 44.

[4] David Chierichetti, Edith Head: The Life and Times of Hollywood’s Celebrated Costume Designer. New York: Harper Collins, 2003. 21-22.

[5] Head, The Dress Doctor. 46.

 

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FRED ASTAIRE’S DANCE PARTNERS AND THEIR COSTUMES

 

Fred Astaire danced with the best dancing stars of classic Hollywood. And while they danced with him they were dressed by some of the best studio costume designers. His dance partners have included Ginger Rogers, who he danced  with in several movies: Rita Hayworth;  Eleanor Powell; Judy Garland; Vera-Ellen; Cyd Charisse, Leslie Caron; and Audrey Hepburn, and he even partnered with Gene Kelly in Ziegfeld Follies. 

Fred & Adele Astaire in Smiles (Broadway) 1930-1931 Photo courtesy Photofest

Fred Astaire was born to entertain. He and his older sister Adele began a Vaudeville act when he was 7. Fred met George Gershwin in 1916 and they remained friends for the rest of George’s short life. The Astaires were on Broadway by 1917. They performed in several musicals that took them to London. There, Adele was wooed and wed by Lord Charles Cavendish. Along with his natural grace Fred picked up the impeccable style of the British upper class. But now he was without a partner and his act fell apart.  He managed to find himself in another successful Broadway musical, Gay Divorce (1932-1933)with dancing partner Clare Luce, with Cole Porter’s music including the catchy number, Night and Day. After closing the show he went to Hollywood with a contract at RKO Pictures.

David O. Selznick was the head of production at the time, with Pandro Berman a leading producer. Fred’s first screen test for the studio didn’t bring down the house. According to Fred Astaire’s later memory, it summarized him as, “Can’t act. Slightly bald. Also dances.” But all Fred needed was a dance partner. Yet RKO’s first role for him wasn’t ready so he was loaned out to MGM for a role starring as himself with a dance partner not quite up to the task: Joan Crawford, in Dancing Lady (1933).  But lightning sparked when Fred was paired with Ginger Rogers in RKO’s Flying Down to Rio. Ironically, the future dancing dynamos were not even top-billed. The stars of the movie were Dolores Del Rio and Gene Raymond. Fred and Ginger had smaller parts, especially Ginger, but they smoked the floor when they danced to “The Carioca.” They stole the show, as they say in show business.  Dolores Del Rio was a big star at the time and used her favorite designer Irene (Lentz Gibbins) to design her wardrobe for the film. Walter Plunkett was RKO’s costume designer and he designed Ginger Rogers’ costumes and those of the chorines.

Flying Down to Rio. Photo courtesy Photofest

RKO realized they had something special with Fred and Ginger, and when Broadway’s Gay Divorce was turned into RKO’s 1935 film The Gay Divorcee (a gay divorce could not possibly happen according to the censor), the studio realized they had gold. This movie musical launched something different: Fred insisted on the cameras shooting Ginger and him dancing full bodied cross the studio floor. No jump cuts or edits of close-up foot-work or head shots would be used until they were finished. Plus they smiled as they danced, looking like they were having the greatest time.  Deep in the Depression, this was a winning combination for the audience. Fred’s early screen test meant nothing now, especially with his chemistry with Ginger Rogers. As someone said about the duo, “He gave her class and she gave him sex.”

Their dancing was infectious to look at, a symbol of the romance that was always bubbling as part of the plot. And a plot that became a standard with RKO’s Fred and Ginger movies. They meet seemingly by accident, and while there’s attraction, things go wrong and keep going wrong until they finally unite at the very end.

Walter Plunkett designed Gay Divorcee, and with his first two RKO movies he set the pattern for her dance dresses: a tight fit at the waist and bodice that showed off her gorgeous figure, and a flowing skirt that twirled as she danced with Fred.

Walter Plunkett’s costume sketch below shows the  costume worn by the chorines (the white version, there was also a black). The ruffles at the elbows were brought up to the shoulders.

By the time  Fred and Ginger’s third film Top Hat (1935was being made, Walter Plunkett had left RKO due to a salary dispute. New York fashion designer Bernard Newman had been brought on and was given the choice assignments and that didn’t please Walter. But Newman’s designs for Ginger became more eye-popping, and she became more involved in the designs. Newman’s famous light blue “Feathers” gown for Top Hat  was a good example. It was made of silk satin with ostrich feathers at the skirt and shoulders. It became a bit of a battle between the Astaire camp and the Rogers camp as to whether it would remain in the movie. The issue, unresolved to the end, was how to keep the feathers from coming loose when Ginger danced with Fred. Even after some hand-re-sewing of individual ostrich plumes, they can still be seen flying about in the “Dancing Cheek-to-Cheek” number, which irritated Fred to no end. But what a magnificent scene. My great-aunt was irritated too. As the head cutter-fitter at RKO wardrobe, she didn’t have to do the sewing, but she had to supervise the process. Fred made light of the whole matter afterwards. He made a present to Ginger of a gold feather for her charm bracelet.

 

Top Hat (1935) Courtesy Photofest

Follow the Fleet followed Top Hat, and Bernard Newman followed his knock-out gown for Ginger with another one. The stellar gown in this movie was made entirely of silver bugle beads, trimmed with a fox collar. The gown weighed about 30 lbs. The bugle beaded skirt was translucent so you could see her figure against the light. But once again, Fred was not happy. The bell-shaped sleeves were heavy too, and when she twirled around in early takes her sleeves would slap up against his cheeks.  But again, the resulting “Let’s Face the Music and Dance” Irving Berlin number has to be their most beautiful (below). It was shot in one take.

 

Swing Time followed, which many consider the best of the Fred and Ginger movies (though closely matched by Top Hat).  Bernard Newman again designed Ginger’s wardrobe although there were no over the top gowns. At this point she didn’t need them to get noticed in a movie, as all eyes were  frequently on her. The usual plot-line of the rough meeting, sudden attraction, then roller coaster road to a relationship is laid out again. And there are the dances – always sublime.

 

Swing Time (1936) Photo courtesy Photofest

When they first meet, Ginger is a dance instructor and Fred pretends not to know how to dance (at first). For the scene she wears a simple black dress with white pleated Peter Pan collar with bow. The full pleated skirt is designed to flow as she dances.

 

Swing Time (1936) Photo courtesy Photofest

The climactic dance is the “Never Gonna Dance” number, Jerome Kern and Dorothy Field’s song written for the movie. Bernard Newman’s design for Ginger was a beautiful flowing backless  décolleté gown with criss-cross straps decorated with rhinestones. This gown too is translucent, as was the detachable cape. The dance number was the highlight of their partnership.

 

Fred and Ginger made Shall We Dance in 1937 and Carefree in 1938 but their movies weren’t as popular as before. America was slowly coming out of the Depression and movie audience expectations were changing. A theater magazine had just listed several actors as “Box office poison,” and among them were big stars like Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford, Katharine Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich, and Fred Astaire. Bernard Newman had just left RKO. While his designs were stunning, he couldn’t keep up with the pace of work at a Hollywood studio. Howard Greer, formerly of Paramount Pictures filled in to design Ginger’s wardrobe for Carefree. He had opened his own fashion business in Beverly Hills and was doing rather well. After he finished this film Edward Stevenson, with years of experience going back to First National, assumed most of the design duties at RKO. A Howard Greer costume sketch for Ginger in Carefree is shown below. Fred and Ginger’s final movie at RKO was The Story of Vernon and Irene Castle. As the studio wanted, this would be a departure from their usual boy meets girl, boy loses girl, boy gets girl back story. It was based on the real story of the once very famous dance team of the Castles.  But problems began early. Vernon had already died and Irene wanted the movie to be very exact in its portrayal of them – down to story line, dance steps, costumes, and their likeness. It’s still a mystery who designed the costumes. Walter Plunkett, who had come back to RKO, stated he bowed out when Irene Castle became so rigid in her demands. The costume sketches themselves are unlike any done by the regular sketch artists at RKO. In any event, the movie was not a success and while Ginger stayed on at RKO to win an Oscar for Kitty Foyle, Fred’s contract was up and he moved on.

Howard Greer costume sketch for Ginger Rogers in Carefree

Fred was not quite the box office poison the article made him out to be. MGM, Paramount, and Columbia all wanted him to do movies for them. MGM came in first with Broadway Melody of 1940, made in 1939, which was followed later by a long term contract. In this movie he more than met his match in tap -dancing: the incredible Eleanor Powell. When the two danced in the Begin the Beguine number, it was introduced years later by Frank Sinatra for That’s Entertainment!  He stated,  “You can wait around and hope, but you’ll never see the likes of this again.” But In the photo below, they dance in Eleanor’s favorite, the “Jukebox” tap dance number. They are both having fun with this one.

The costume designer for this film was Adrian, and while all Eleanor’s costumes move well while she dances ( and they don’t bother Fred) he adds whimsy with the Cossack accents.

Fred moved to Paramount Pictures where in 1942 he made what would become a classic,  Holiday Inn (along with it’s sequel)or as it was fully titled: Irving Berlin’s Holiday Inn. Here he was joined by Bing Crosby and Marjorie Reynolds. And while Fred dances Marjorie Reynolds around the floor (at one point on the floor when he plays drunk), it’s when Bing sings “White Christmas” to Marjorie, and then they sing in duo, that music history is made.

Edith Head designed Marjorie Reynolds’ costumes. Allthough the movie was black and white one of the costumes was made of gold beads. The costume sketch below (shown with Fred as the dance partner) was modified somewhat in the film as an embroidered silk gown. The signature on the sketch is that of director Mark Sandrich.

 

The photo below shows Marjorie in her gold beaded gown.

 

Fred made a couple of movies at Columbia Pictures after talking to producer Gene Markey. He would star with the daughter of an old dancing Vaudeville friend of his, Eduardo Cansino. His daughter was Rita Cansino, now known as Rita Hayworth. Their first movie together was successful: You’ll Never Get Rich (1941) but their second movie You Were Never Lovelier (1942) was a hit.  The music was by Jerome Kern and Johnnie Mercer. Here Fred courts Rita, but her Argentine father disapproves.

 

The photos above and below show Fred and Rita dancing in You Were Never Lovelier. Rita’s beautiful wardrobe was designed by Irene (Lentz Gibbons), who was designing for Bulluck’s Wilshire at the time. Irene frequently freelanced for studio work for stars that demanded her services, as she had for Dolores Del Rio.  This gown had embroidered sequins at the bodice and skirt, with an illusion top. It flowed beautifully as can be seen in the bottom photo. Unfortunately, while Fred sang the “You Were Never Lovelier” song to Rita, the dance scene was cut from the final film.

 

Fred Astaire had achieved an enviable career in his first decade in Hollywood. But much more was yet to come. More of his films, dance partners, and their costumes is covered in Part II of this blog here

 

 

 

 

 

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